Defining Independence Part IV: Along Came Opus
Harry Winston, renowned for its exquisite jewelry and precious gems, embarked on a transformative journey in 1998 to breathe new life into its watch department. With a thirty-one-year-old Maximilian Büsser at the helm, who later went on to establish Maximilian Büsser & Friends, the Opus Project would come to define the early era of modern independents.
Maximilian Büsser, courtesy of MB&F
Büsser’s mandate was clear: elevate the watchmaking to match the quality and reputation the rest of the brand was known for, and grow the business. “For me, it was only possible by creating a watch product which would approach the same level of excellence in watchmaking as Harry Winston already had in the world of jewelry,” said Büsser.
The Opus Project came to define an era of independent watchmaking. It pushed the boundaries of what most people thought possible for a traditional brand like Harry Winston and was completely unexpected. It was an innovative decision that spurred creativity, collaborations, and increased the visibility of independent watchmakers and shed light on the watchmakers, and the power of collaboration in an industry that remained resistant to change.
A chance encounter between Maximilian Büsser and François-Paul Journe at Baselworld in 2000 ignited a creative movement that would come to define the project. The Opus Project provided a platform for independent watchmakers to collaborate with Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, creating limited edition timepieces that would showcase not only their skills, but their personal vision of horology.
Collaborating with Harry Winston increased the reach of these independent watchmakers, exposing their work to a broader audience of collectors both in and outside of the watch world. Some of these watchmakers were already working for Harry Winston behind the scenes on new timepieces, and the Opus Project allowed them to showcase their work and put their name on the dial.
With François-Paul Journe as their inaugural collaborator, Harry Winston Rare Timepieces embarked on a mission to advance the cause of independent watchmaking, showcase innovations in watchmaking, and have an industry-wide impact in both creativity, the approach to sales, and acknowledgement of the artisans behind the timepieces.
Harry Winston and the Opus Project also asked independent watchmakers to change the status quo with their collaborations. Opus focused on new complications, new ways of looking at classic complications, and interesting movements. In this regard, Opus combined horological ingenuity with Harry Winston’s amazing metals. The metal of choice for Harry Winston jewelry was platinum, and the series began using platinum for Opus I-V, with Opus III and Opus V being offered in red gold. It was not until Opus VI that Harry Winston began using white gold for their cases. The Opus Project also leveraged Harry Winston’s superb gemstones, resulting in singularly stunning timepieces that would come to define gem-set watches.
Prototypes of Opus V at the Urwerk Atelier
The Opus Project’s emphasis on creative expression through limited edition timepieces revolutionized the industry. Each series was produced as a limited edition, something that both larger brands and modern independents emulated with great success. These watches remain highly coveted as early examples of many modern independents' work, making them sound investments in the watch industry because of their rarity, provenance, and the significance of the Opus Project.
The impact of the Opus Project reverberated throughout the watch industry. First, it lifted the veil of secrecy from those independent watchmakers who worked behind the scenes to develop new watches, allowing them to proudly sign their creation and be recognized for their talents. Through the power of collaboration, the Opus Project helped many independent watchmakers establish themselves with a broader audience, and in turn build their brand.
Harry Winston turned that soft power into a superpower, shining the spotlight on independents, and restoring humanity to watchmaking. By showcasing the talents of individuals alongside the talents of the Harry Winston team, Harry Winston fostered a supportive environment for independent watchmakers, normalizing independent watchmakers launching their own brands with unique horological visions.
Though Büsser would leave Harry Winston in 2005, the project carried on. According to Maximilian Büsser, The Opus Project’s greatest victory was that “it helped bring humanity back into watchmaking. In the late nineties, most brands were competing to grow and become major actors in the industry, and we had started to forget about the actual people who engineered, crafted, and assembled the pieces. It was the beginning of the marketing era. Opus finally gave an amplifier and loudspeaker to these incredibly talented watchmakers who had virtually no voice – there was no social media in those days…”
The Opus Project was one of daring. It challenged the conventions of an industry that was rooted in tradition. It revolutionized collaborations, demonstrated what could be achieved with new voices and fresh perspectives were given room for artistic expression. In an era before social media, Harry Winston provided independent watchmakers a platform to share their skill, their vision, and their creations with the world.
The Opus Project in Order:
Opus 1 with François-Paul Journe
Opus 2 with Antoine Preziuso
Opus 3 with Vianney Halter
Opus 4 with Christophe Claret
Opus 5 with Urwerk
Opus 6 with Greubel Forsey
Opus 7 with Andreas Strehler
Opus 8 with Frédéric Garinaud
Opus 9 with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht
Opus 10 with Jean-François Mojon
Opus 11 with Denis Giguet
Opus 12 with Emmanuel Bouchet
Opus 13 with Ludovic Ballouard
Opus 14 with Franck Orny and Johnny Giardin
If you liked this article, check out the rest of my series Defining Independence here. You can always check out my Services page to learn more about my work and services for collectors and brands & retailers!
