Defining Independence Part VI: Exploring the Soul of Independent Watchmaking
A selection of Moritz Grossman watches on Display - Photo ©FTS Creates
have often said that watches are the ultimate form of self-expression. At six years old, when I saw a contemporary of my father’s wearing a yellow-dial dive watch on a yellow strap, it stood out because it was so different from regular old boring finance-guy attire (read: a gold Rolex). When I saw that watch, I learned that watches are a way to tell others something about you. And for me, that has made watches, and the people behind them, fascinating.
My first article in this series Defining Independence focuses on the canvas for self-expression that is independent watchmaking. I felt pretty confident in saying that a finalized watch represented the soul of the maker who, often over a period of years, put their blood, sweat, and tears into a watch.
Luca Soprana, master watchmaker, concept horologist, and independent watchmaker, offered a correction to that. He wrote to me and said that he didn’t think that self-expression was the right terminology. Instead, he offered that self-exploration was the right phrasing, stating that watches are an exploration of the maker’s creativity and skill.
At first, I didn’t agree, but slowly I think I’ve come to understand his point of view. And I think the same applies to collectors- our watches can be a form of self-expression, but more often they are a form of exploration: what am I trying to tell others about myself? What am I feeling today?
The more I think about it, the more watches as a form of exploration from the point of view of the independent watchmaker makes sense. Every watch represents a challenge. Concepting and developing an idea, creating a new movement, making components, working with tiny bits of metal — these are all challenges. And when the watch is complete and working, there is the question of decoration. How should the watch be finished? What fits in with the general aesthetic and feel of the watch?
These are all questions that the watchmaker has to answer, they determine the overall look and feel of a watch, they explore the mind and creativity of a watchmaker and the result is the watchmaker presenting their creativity, soul, and innermost thoughts to the world. It is deeply personal. It’s not about expression, it’s about the exploration of their capabilities as a creator.
Watchmakers like to push boundaries, not because something is groundbreaking, but they want to add their voice to the symphony that is modern independent watchmaking — it doesn’t matter if that inspiration comes from a 19th century marine chronometer or a modern smartwatch. What matters is the exploration of skill and creativity, and building the capabilities to execute at a level that satisfies the watchmaker. That said, having spoken to many watchmakers, there are always revisions to be made, changes to be adapted, and, unfortunately, often fixes or solutions that come once the watch is finished.
Stephen McDonnell spoke about this with regards to the development of the MB&F Legacy Machine perpetual EVO on Forward Momentum Episode 20. Stephen explains that he was absolutely stuck for solving how to stop his multi-layered wheel that is programmed for the months from touching any other component, because the programming only worked when that wheel was not touching any other pin, lever, or element. Stephen explains that the action of the month programming wheel is very violent, and that any attempt he made to apply brakes to, or slow down the action did not work.
Stephen McDonnell - Photo ©FTS Creates
He spent a year worrying about this issue. It was over a year’s worth of work and exploration to find the solution. And the solution came after exasperation and frustration, and a few drinks. Sitting in the workshop, Stephen found the answer on a Monday morning and had the parts redesigned by lunch. He spent a year exploring, and building solutions. Stephen explains that this is a case where three-dimensional modeling would work because the action is so dynamic and violent, a static model didn’t account for all the forces at play. That amount of anxiety and tears is emblematic of the love that independent watchmakers put into their watches — it’s years worth of heartache, love, and deep-thinking that lead to the innovations and solutions that seem so simple.
Jack Matthew Elam, a watchmaker based in Lancashire in the northwest of England, told me that watchmaking is really “Self-expression as a result of your self-exploration. It all comes down to the design stage. If you’ve just thrown a design together, then there are parts you miss and there will have to be revisions down the line. As you go to make the physical product, there are always changes that have to be made. Theory doesn’t always align with a practical side.” In his experience, he’s found that he learns by doing, by making components and assembling them. This has helped him realize that theory and practice don’t always align,adjustments have to be made.
As a watchmaker, and like all watchmakers I know, Jack wants the watch to be perfect before it leaves for the end customer, but if he finds a better way to make a part or realizes finishing has to change before the watch leaves his hands, he will do it, but there is that constant tension of exploring and the rationality that has to take over when the watch is ready for release. All those learnings aren’t for naught, however, they will be applied to future watches and future designs.
Independent watchmakers are less bound by the confines of industrialized watchmaking, affording them the freedom to explore. My original thought was that independent watchmakers built their watches as a form of self-expression, but a minor correction from Luca Soprana showed me that watches are really a form of introspection and exploration, of skills, of abilities, and of your own voice. Within independent watchmaking, the pervasive attitude is one of trying something and seeing if it works; there is a fearlessness in exploring new concepts. That expression that comes from exploration has led to beautiful watches and beautiful creations, and makes the watchmakers behind the brands that much more interesting. I will always say that the watches are fantastic, but it is the people behind the watches who are the truly beautiful part of this community. Explore the world of independents, get to know the makers, and choose watches based not only on the aesthetic sensibilities, but also those makers who you enjoy spending time with. The exploration is worth it.
If you are looking to explore the world of independent watchmakers, you can find my services for collectors here and book a time to speak with me about independent watchmaking, my collector services, and building your ultimate collection.
