Simon Brette Launches the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription
A Humanistic Approach to Watchmaking
Independent watchmakers are artisans, engineers, and historians. Their artistry is demonstrated in creating something that is unique to their style, their engineering is apparent in their quest for innovative ways to solve the problems inherent in mechanical watches, and their knowledge of the history of watchmaking allows them to look to the grandmaster watchmakers for inspiration. This combination creates a desire within these watchmakers to protect their craft that has been around for over 400 years.
Simon Brette is all three, and he is protecting the future of watchmaking with his humanistic approach. Partnering with amazing artisans whose work often goes unnoticed has helped him to achieve his first watch, the Chronomètre Artisans, which is a striking combination of a marine chronometer and avant-garde watchmaking.
Simon Brette — Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
Simon studied engineering with hopes of working in the auto industry. Fortunately for us, he entered the workforce during a recession and found his way to watchmaking. Upon graduation from watchmaking school, Simon joined Jean-François Mojon’s movement development and concepting company Chronode, where he developed his skills and knowledge as a technical constructor, and would go on to join MCT as a project manager. He would later join MB&F as a Development Project Manager, where he worked on watches from R&D to production. This decade of experience built a solid foundation of knowledge and practical skills upon which Simon developed his own ideas of what a watch could be.
With the birth of his daughter in June 2021, Simon knew it was time to embark on a new chapter of his life as an independent. Simon set out to create watches that met his design criteria, aesthetic, and technical requirements. He also wanted to work alongside the most talented artisans he could find, who pushed their craft to the extreme limits. Inspired by his father, a carpenter and woodworker, Simon wanted to create something beautiful and unique that he could take pride in, as he had seen his father take pride in his work.
Simon used his skills as a constructor to build a watch that took design cues from a classical era of watchmaking to design a classical chronometer, a very pure watch sized at 39 millimeters and only 10 millimeters thick. Combining marine chronometer aesthetic, the observatory hands of Urban Jurgensen designed by Derek Pratt, a stop seconds feature for more accurate time setting, and openworking so the watchmaking underneath can be appreciated, Simon has created a watch that is equal parts classical and avant-garde watchmaking.
Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
The dial shows a more contemporary side of watchmaking. The partially open-worked dial allows for a blend of traditional and modern elements. The opening at the crown allows for a view of the time setting mechanism, which can be appreciated while using the crown and setting the time. The opening on the left-hand side of the dial shows the seconds hand floating above the third and fourth wheel, with a translucent sapphire disc with a frosted finish set above for seconds indication. This is mirrored in the chapter ring for the minute markers finished in the same translucent sapphire disc with frosted finish, increasing legibility while decreasing glare. The Sapphire discs really do feel like they have an element of Greubel Forsey to them, floating above the dial, adding both depth and beauty.
The dial, finished in an engraving technique known as “dragon scales” is phenomenal. Simon challenged his engraver to find a technique that they wanted to use and to execute it to the highest level possible. The “dragon scales” are the result of that work and the dial is extremely legible, but throws light in a way that is similar to a diamond. The interplay between the dragon scale dial and the sapphire chapter rings adds to the interplay between classical and avant-garde watchmaking.
Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
Adding to the beauty of the watch is the overall finishing. Simon decided to use screws that are deeply concave and mirror polished to perfection. This gives the effect of having domed screws in the watch, which, in Simon’s overachieving fashion, are set in gold chatons. On the caseback, the screws are evident, along with the superb finishing across the movement and baseplate. The screws are a perfect example of the level of attention to detail in this watch. They could have been plain, polished screws. But Simon saw the possibility to go above and beyond and took it.
Simon’s first calibre, the SBCA sits at the heart of the watch. Focusing on both technical achievement and aesthetics, Simon opted for a large balance wheel beating at 2.5Hz, a nod to marine chronometers that used large diameter balance wheels. This balance wheel is held in palace by a single titanium bridge that is mirror polished and provides a beautiful pop of color against the balance and the anthracite ruthenium finish of the three-quarter bridge. In the creation of his first calibre, Simon thought through the servicing of his watches and positioned the escape wheel and pallet lever to enable access to a watchmaker without removing the balance wheel.
That balance bridge though….Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
One of my favorite aspects of a watch is the actual winding and time setting. In a time-only three-hander, I believe that winding and time setting need to be engaging, allowing the wearer to be an active participant in the watch. Simon has overachieved in this department, where winding the watch has a superb sound and tactile feedback between your fingers. The winding mechanism is one that Simon developed while studying engineering, which replaces multiple components in a traditional system and allows for a more robust and reliable mechanism.
The openworking at the crown allows the wearer to appreciate the mechanical intricacies of the design — Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
The Souscription edition of the watch, which is sold out, is offered in a Zirconium case. More traditional metal alloys will be offered in production models, but Simon wanted to do something special for those who ordered his Souscription piece. Simon’s focus was on case ergonomics and the proportions are perfect. The watch sits beautifully on the wrist. Thinking through how collectors might like to wear their watch, the lugs have two sets of holes, one for straight spring bars and one for curved spring bars, with each set offering a slightly different appearance on the wrist.
Simon pays homage to his father on the case, where there is a polished element that looks like a dovetail that protrudes slightly from the case. It is a classy nod to his father’s work as a carpenter, and a reminder to Simon of where his inspiration and drive to execute his craft to the fullest came from. It’s something small that I tremendously enjoy and demonstrates the humanistic side of this project.
The Dovetail Detail — Photos courtesy of Simon Brette, all photos by Laurent Xavier Moulin
Having seen the prototype and development stages of this watch, I am incredibly excited for Simon. The watch has developed into something more than a watch; it is truly wearable art. Simon was clear that he wanted to help artisans to bring their highest expression of their craft to life. The Chronomètre Artisans feels like the watch that does that. Simon remained true to his vision and took advice from the master craftsmen he worked with. The result is stunning.
Congratulations to both Simon Brette, and the team of artisans behind the watch. Everyone has truly gone above and beyond in the creation of this piece. Simon is taking a new approach to watchmaking, enlisting artisans who are at the peak of their creativity and craft and pushing them beyond their limits. It is a humanistic approach to watchmaking, helping all parties to take part in creating something amazing. I look forward to seeing what he and his team of artisans will create in the future.
Matthieu Allègre ― Watchmaking Designer
Yasmina Anti ― Hand engraver
Marc Bolis and Alyna Rouelle ― Micromechanical machining
Barbara Coyon ― Watchmaking Decorator
Pierre-Alain Dornier & Cie ― High-precision machining
Julien Ducommun & Cie ― Manufacturing, micromechanics and machining
Damien Genillard ― Surface Finisher
Nadine Görgl ― Hairspring regulator specialist
Alexis Greco & Cie ― Watchmaking Decorator
Nathalie Jean-Louis ― Watchmaking Decorator
Luc Monnet ― Prototypist Watchmaker, Art Mechanic
Anton Pettersson ― Prototypist Watchmaker, Art Mechanic
