Well, here we go again - Luxury brands investing in watch companies. In case you missed it yesterday, MB&F announced that Chanel has made a 25%investment in the company, with the investment in MB&F following investments in independent watchmakers Romain Gauthier and F.P. Journe.

In the wake of the speculative hype cycle in the watch industry, I find myself questioning what it means to be a collector. Does a large volume of watches make you a collector? Can you buy/sell/trade, have a smaller collection and still be a “collector”? What does it mean to have a smaller collection? Does it mean you are no longer a collector?

Are we, as collectors, media, and consumers, expecting too much from the brands we love? I believe the answer is yes.

The watch industry’s current release cycle is well established: a spring release for Watches & Wonders and a late-summer release for Geneva Watch Days. While some of the industry players like Richard Mille, march to the beat of their own drum and release watches as they are ready, many brands feel compelled to stick to this twice a year release schedule. Many brands only participate in one release cycle annually at Watches & Wonders. Even on a 365 day release schedule, the pace can lead to the dilution of creativity, and I would argue for many brands it has.

Cyclists already spend a lot of money to buy the latest kit, the newest bike, and to buy equipment that our favorite teams and riders are using. Some go so far as to buy the official team kit of our favorite teams. It only makes sense that we would also want the same watches that are on the wrists of our heroes.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the watch industry saw a surge in popularity due to lockdowns and increased disposable income. However, the landscape is shifting as smartwatches become more prevalent. The Swiss watch industry initially underestimated the threat of smartwatches, but with nearly 71 million units manufactured in 2023, this segment is growing rapidly.

Smartwatches offer numerous features and seamlessly integrate into our digital lives, while mechanical watches provide a luxurious analog escape from constant notifications. The watch industry now has a unique opportunity to adapt and innovate, focusing on simplicity and timeless appeal.

With the launch of the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback, MB&F takes a new approach to their Legacy Machine Series.

Amidst the new releases and innovations, Watches & Wonders signaled a few notable changes across the watch industry. This year highlighted evolutionary trends, rather than a revolutionary shift in the industry.

Contrary to popular belief, collecting has never been about numbers; it’s about cultivating a deep love and relationship with the objects themselves. I’ve met collectors who couldn’t tell the difference between a calendar in a chronograph but have owned many of each, and I’ve met collectors who own a G-Shock but could explain in depth movement details about Patek Minute Repeater movements. It’s a spectrum, appreciate what you have and what you know.