Well, this week’s post was supposed to be about OnlyWatch. What’s coming, what to look forward to, what will change for the production versions of these watches, but that is all for naught at the moment. After questions were raised about OnlyWatch, how the funds raised from the auction were being used, and calls for greater transparency, the Monegasque Association Against Myopathies (the group of families affected by Duchenne Muscular Dystrophywho puts on OnlyWatch) was left with little choice but to postpone the auction.

Becoming an independent watchmaker isn't just about putting a name on a dial, it's about the journey to attaining the skills, knowledge, and craftsmanship necessary to pursue a career as an independent watchmaker.

Learn about the ways to become an independent watchmaker in Part V on my series on Defining Independence.

Ever wondered what drives watch collectors and the allure of independent watchmaking? In this episode, I star as our featured guest with special guest host JDR, the CEO of Alex Crown. JDR and I embark on a journey through the intricate realm of watch collecting, specifically focusing on independent watchmakers. My journey into this world began with a simple Swatch watch, and my fascination grew over time. We discuss the uniqueness of independent watchmakers, their commitment to preserving tradition, and their ability to create a deeper connection with collectors through their stories.

Geneva Watch Days 2023 marked Ressence’s inaugural participation as a brand, and my first interaction with the brand. Exploring their approach to watchmaking by removing elements like the crown and hands represents a new approach to watchmaking, resulting in a timepiece unlike any other. Founder & CEO Benoît Mintiens wanted to redesign the watch from the ground up. The Type 3 EE Eucalyptus, with its captivating green hue, brings a fresh perspective to the otherwise monochromatic Type 3 lineup. Its organic design and seamless fit on the wrist make it a great daily wearing watch.

Harry Winston, renowned for its exquisite jewelry and precious gems, embarked on a transformative journey in 1998 to breathe new life into its watch department. The Opus Project came to define an era of independent watchmaking. It pushed the boundaries of what most people thought possible for a traditional brand like Harry Winston and was completely unexpected. It was an innovative decision that spurred creativity, collaborations, and increased the visibility of independent watchmakers and shed light on the watchmakers, and the power of collaboration in an industry that remained resistant to change.

Urwerk has always blended deeply philosophical thinking with horological brilliance. The UR100V Stardust, which debuted at Geneva Watch Days, redefines elegance with gem-setting that adds a uniquely tactile sensation while combining natural beauty with the avant-garde watchmaking of Urwerk. We also got to see the Urwerk Space-Time Blade, presented for Only Watch this year. The Space-Time Blade is a fusion of all things Urwerk, combining craftsmanship and technology, and seamlessly blending in sci-fi elements that help everyone to dream. I am excited about where these projects are leading Urwerk after they celebrated their 25th anniversary!

Thirteen years on from the brand's first in-house caliber, the team at Armin Strom decided to completely rework that 7-day power reserve caliber, hence the name. The watch required a fair bit of imagination as the team wanted to bring forward more architectural aspects and add more depth to the main plate. Carrying forward the lessons learned from Mr. Armin Strom himself, Claude and Serge continue the legacy of not hiding the movement from the wearer.

This year Geneva Watch Days was punctuated by a very hot week preceding the event, and cool weather during Geneva Watch Days, itself. It really felt as though fall had arrived. Aside from the obvious seasonal changes, there were numerous changes I noticed from Geneva Watch Days 2022 to 2023 that really intrigued me.

Fueled in no small part by two boutique movement workshops, a new generation of horological visionaries cut their teeth and learned to carry on the legacy of haute horology. Finding freedom in the newfound superfluity of the wristwatch, these watchmakers realized their creations no longer had to exist solely for timekeeping. Rather, their creations could become wearable works of art, mechanically complex items that not only expressed a specific point of view on watchmaking, but pushed the limits of human ingenuity and micro-engineering.

The history of watchmaking is one of innovation, craftsmanship, and the slow dispersion of skills and talents from artisans and scientists across diverse disciplines. A journey through the history of horology reveals the inseparable connection between independent watchmaking and the evolution of timekeeping, a relentless pursuit driven by human curiosity.

Independent watchmaking is where history, engineering, and artistry collide. It’s a canvas for self expression. Independent watchmaking can be found in the hands of a singular artisan, or in brands crafting hundreds, or thousands, of timepieces annually.

I love watches because they are an allegory for humanity: watches are made by humans, striving for perfection, but are themselves fallible. I love that watches are mechanical works of art, made by hand, and can be repaired over time. They feel like a permanent object in a world of planned obsolescence.

Why do I care so much about watchmaking? There’s just something about Switzerland — the people, the vistas, the Alps, the lakes, the chill to the air on an October morning. It draws you in. And watches do much the same. I love that this industry has survived tectonic shifts in technology and continues to be relevant.

We are all obsessed with time, living and dying by our work calendar, and obsessed with how to use our time wisely. It’s the one asset you cannot buy more of, and it’s the one thing that we all worry about how we spend it.

Auction Fatigue, New Releases, and What’s on the Horizon

What’s happening, watch fans? 2023 has already held plenty of excitement in independent watchmaking and in the watch industry broadly. Auction season got off to an incredible start this year and it seemed like there was an auction every other week. Auctions in Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York dominated the scene and from what I saw, and have personally experienced, there is a lot of auction fatigue setting in. In Hong Kong, it seemed that many bidders did not show up to the first day of auctions.

On paper, I wasn’t sure about this watch. Seeing De Bethune’s DB Eight in person changed my mind.

Simon Brette is protecting the future of watchmaking with his humanistic approach. Partnering with amazing artisans whose work often goes unnoticed has helped him to achieve his first watch, the Chronomètre Artisans, which is a striking combination of a marine chronometer and avant-garde watchmaking.

Attending Windup Watch Fair in Chicago two weeks ago was a breath of fresh air. It’s taken me a little bit of time to digest the changes occurring within the watch ecosystem.